Global

The Curry Chronicles

In the West, Indian food has become a bland bastardization of the complex original.

Skimming across a menu at one of Los Angeles’s critically acclaimed ethnic Indian restaurants, I didn’t...

India

Howling for Rishikesh

Inspired by Ginsberg, a writer visits India’s meditation capital

Rishikesh is many things to many people. It is where the Ganges is, in some sense,...

England

Underground London

In the rush of a modern city, who pauses to ponder what exists beneath?

What lies beneath has an ominous aspect to us ground dwellers. We appreciate being able to...

Caribbean

My Father’s Land

The indelible marks of slavery in Jamaica

Where are your monuments, your battles, martyrs? Where is your tribal memory? Sirs, in that grey...

Uganda

Fruits of their Labor

How farmers changed the way Ugandans eat

The violence in Uganda was escalating when my parents fled to Kenya on foot, trekking through...

Mexico

No one is from Akumal

Forging identity and community in a Yucatan town

We heard the drums before we saw them. A steady, staccato beat beckoned us to walk...

Moscow

Taking to the Streets

Pro-democracy protests were loud in Moscow in 2011, but slowly got quieter

It was Monday, December 5, 2011—a grey, warm afternoon, and a thin cover of snow started...

Moscow

Russia’s Big Ballet: A Drama in Three Acts

Crime and intrigue in the Bolshoi was as dark as any performance

PROLOGUE Ballet has long been one of Russia’s national treasures, and the Bolshoi, Russian for “big,”...

Ethiopia

Lalibela: Under Repair

Locals decry renovation delays in Ethiopia's "new Jerusalem"

If there is one city in Ethiopia that any visitor will endeavor to see—with budget backpackers...

Egypt

What Lies Beneath

Life, Beauty and Water Scarcity on the Nile

It is a must-do on a visit to Cairo to take a felucca ride on the...

Japan

Forest Bathing

Feeling the force of the forest

My husband Russell and I were on a fertility tour of sorts, traveling Southeast Asia and...

Moscow

My Moscow

A writer remembers the city of her youth

Translated by Antonina W. Bouis Five generations of my family have lived in Moscow. Grandfather bought...