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Dead and Kicking

Writer's haunts—and haunting writers—in Moscow

Moscow is a city of dead writers. No matter where you look, they are everywhere. Over twenty monuments. More than thirty literary museums. Hundreds of commemorative plaques—some of them with portraits, some with text, and yet others with manuscript pages cast in bronze and flying off the wall like poorly attached sheets of metal roofing. Beware, citizens. Watch out. Who are these two, a man and a cat, both motionless, sitting on a garden bench in a Maryina Roshcha garden? Behemoth and Koroviev, of course, from Bulgakov’s The Master and Margarita. Care to join them? At your own risk, for...


A New Love of Stalin

Over the past decade, public approval of Russia's famous dictator has grown.

In an interview he gave to American filmmaker Oliver Stone, broadcast last year, Russian President Vladimir...


The 13th Century City of Coexistence

Granada's stunning sites showcase a time and place when Christians, Muslims and ethnic minorities lived side by side

The Alhambra sits above the city of Granada proud, imperious, heartbreakingly beautiful. As I approach the...

Mexico City

Tepito: Inside Mexico City’s Barrio Bravo

The neighborhood that's been sensationalized, stigmatized and romanticized like no other.

There are more dangerous neighborhoods than Tepito in Mexico City, for example, parts of Iztapalapa, the...

Did You Know?

Photo credit: Keisai Eisen


Bird Fishing

More than 1,000 years ago, both European and Asian fishermen relied on trained cormorants to help them catch fish. The practice still continues in small numbers in both China and Japan, with fishermen waiting until the evening to set out in boats with lanterns and set their birds on the river.

Encounters that take you there.

Before there were guidebooks, 18th- and 19th-century authors wrote “stranger’s guides” to cities and countries, pamphlets and books that combined helpful tips with particular and offbeat advice and context: the best boarding houses alongside bits of history, preferred brothels as well as ways to avoid pickpockets. These guides were far removed from a modern, sanitized Fodor’s—rather they were personal, eccentric and intimate portrayals of place.

Stranger’s Guide is a modern version of that idea—a nonprofit publication designed to reveal the intricacies of places across the globe, through both local and foreign eyes.