Our Ireland guide offers a fascinating look at rapidly transforming country. Ireland has never been more relevant—once one of Europe’s conservative countries, the country has transformed rapidly in less than a generation. Now a progressive beacon, Ireland’s evolution demonstrates how quickly a place can change. This issue includes Colum McCann on the Irish storytelling tradition, Eimear Ryan on the fight for women’s sports, as well as fascinating features on the country’s horse-rearing tradition in public housing, and powerful testimonies on Brexit from those who cross the Northern Irish border each day. It’s a must-read for anyone interested in the Emerald Isle.