Mexico City

Improvising Survival

The clash between the new global gentrifiers and Mexico City’s informal economies.

From downtown, it takes about an hour by metro to get to the Wednesday flea market...

Mexico City

Bullfighting

Three-quarters of Mexicans support a ban

Mexico City is home to Plaza de Toros Mexico, the largest bullring in the world. The first...

Mexico City

The Pulque Chronicles

Mexico’s pre-Hispanic alcoholic drink finds new life in the city’s old school bars.

Ten years ago I lived in an apartment building in downtown Mexico City. One afternoon a...

Mexico City

The Underworld

The sewer diver of Mexico City

Whereas the Greek underworld included five rivers, Mexico City’s underworld is a bit more complex—roughly 7,500...

Mexico City

Eternal Funeral Pyres

The myth behind the Mexican volcanoes Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl

The Iztaccíhuatl volcano is 51 miles from Mexico City but visible from almost any rooftop. Izta,...

Colombia

Desert Dwellers

A writer ponders the benefits of tourism to La Guajira, Colombia's northeastern desert.

The dry wind sweeps desert dirt and endless trash across long and lonely miles, twisting around...
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